Antiques, Collectibles, Toy Cars And Replicas, All Die-Cast - A Motormint Review

Before we delve into this too deeply, take a gander at their guarantee down at the bottom of the page. Now you can see why we were interested in doing a review for The National Motor Museum Mint.

The National Motor Museum Mint, a 30-year old family-owned model car business, is a diecast collectible company that offers over 2,000 diecast classic model cars, planes, trucks, buses and military vehicles. Many of these cars are produced exclusively by them from their own tools, dies and molds and are not available elsewhere in any size scale.

The Mint prints a minimum of four catalogs per year which can be had for zero dollars or cent (free). They challenge that if you can't find what you're looking for in one of their catalogs or online, contact them. (Don't be surprised if they can fulfill your desire anyway using their own tools, dies, and molds.)

Antiques, Collectibles, Toy Cars And Replicas, All Die-Cast - A Motormint Review

Shopping through them is so easy.

They accept:

· Visa,

· MasterCard

· American Express and

· Discover

All directly through their secured check out. Shipping and handling varies based on the dollar value of your order, and please note that at this time they do not ship items C.O.D. You'll find that most orders are shipped from their warehouse within 48-72 hours.

Guarantee:

One thing we haven't discussed as yet is their guarantee. Let' look at that now.

The National Motor Museum Mint stands behind their sales completely which allows them the bragging right to say that theirs is the "Best Diecast Hobby Guarantee Around".

That's a pretty bold statement, but when you factor in that if at any time you are not completely satisfied they will buy it back from you for the full purchase price.

So for how long does this guarantee last?

The answer to that one is, FOREVER

That is absolutely correct. You have not misread that last statement.
We can only say this upon the review. That is how we want to see a company stand behind a "No Holds Barred Diecast Hobbies Lifetime Buy-back Guarantee"! Yes indeedy!

Antiques, Collectibles, Toy Cars And Replicas, All Die-Cast - A Motormint Review
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This is an on-going review and shall be periodically updated.

More information about The National Motor Museum Mint and a fresh look at our updates can be found here Motormint Review [http://kooltymz.shopping.officelive.com/]

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Tips On Antiques Collecting

Advertising Items

1. Watch out for modern soda pop advertising items. There are reproductions (close copies of original pieces) and "fantasy items" (brand new pieces with no old counterparts). Pepsi Cola items is especially abundant.

2. Collectors of advertising items always keep these points in mind: 1) Subject (company); 2) Rarity; 3) Condition; 4) Eye Appeal.

Tips On Antiques Collecting

Artworks

1. A reverse-painted glass object, as the name implies, has the decoration sketched and dien pain tel. d in color on the back or inside. The most delicate examples are the tiny snuff bottles produced by the Chinese. Flat pictures were much easier to produce since the background design was sometimes stenciled on and then filled in with color. The Chinese did such painted pictures and, in the early 19th century, German artisans also produced such works, mainly as human por¬traits. Reverse-painted scenes were also quite often featured in the glass tablets above mirrors during the first half of the 19* century.

2. Currier & Ives prints are probably the most reproduced of any 19th century American lithographs. Read the inscription along the bottom edge with care. Many originals will have the date they were "Entered According to an Act of Congress," but some old ones are undated.

3. One test to help sort the originals from the copies is to use a 10X loupe and examine a small area. If you see tiny dashed lines, it is an original. If you see an overall design of tiny dots, it is a photographic copy. Also, if you can examine it out of the frame, you should be able to detect the watercolor paint on die surface. It will reflect light as it is turned at an angle.

Ceramics

1. Dogs are not the only old Staffordshire pottery pieces reproduced; other animals and even figural groups have been copied. Watch out for overall "crazing" of the glaze (early examples are seldom crazed). Also "firing holes" or vent holes on the bottom of originals are only about W diameter. Modern pieces have much larger holes.

2. The "Wedgwood" Wares Confusion. Most people see the name "Wedgwood" on a piece of ceramic and assume it is a product of the famous Josiah Wedgwood firm that was established around 1769 and is still operating today. Several other English potteries, however, used markings that appear similar. Keep in mind the Josiah Wedgwood pottery uses only the word "Wedgwood" to indicate the firm (note: no middle "e" in "Wedgwood").

Confusing marks include "Wedgwood & Co." (1860 - ), "H.F. Wedgwood & Co. Ltd. (ca. 1954-9), and "J. Wedgwood," the mark of John Wedge Wood (1841-60).

3. Ironstone china is a dense, heavy earthenware pottery that was the everyday tableware of most Americans from the 1840s until around 1910. First invented in England in the early 19th century, huge quantities were exported to the United States. In the 1850s all-white wares with embossed designs were popular, but patterns were also decorated with many transfer-printed de¬signs in dark flow blue and, later, in lighter shades of blue, brown, green, etc. Copper luster trim and designs such as Tea Leaf were long popular as was the Moss Rose pattern.

Much ironstone carries company trademarks that may include other terms for the ware such as "Stone China," "White Granite," "Granite Ware," "Opaque China," "Parisian Granite" and others.

4. Watch out for "fake" R.S. Prussia marks. The new green and red mark has been available on decal sheets for a number of years and can be applied to any unmarked china.

5. Ceramics Primer. A "ceramic" is any object made from clay and fired in a kiln. There are two categories of "Ceramics": pottery and porcelain.

Pottery is usually heavier and denser than porcelain and can be made from several types of clay to produce redware (reddish ware), yellowware (pale yellow) and stoneware (dense grey body). These types were used for more common utilitarian items (crocks, bowls, jugs, etc.) A finer, whiter pottery clay produces earthenware used for better dinnerware and serving pieces. Most must be glazed to hold liquid.

Porcelain is made with special clays, one clay composed of kaolin (china clay), one petun- tze (a fusible feldspathic rock). Porcelain is much finer and whiter than pottery and is also harder. Most pieces of porcelain will be translucent when held to a strong light. All pottery wares are opaque.

The Chinese developed porcelain in the 13d1 century, and it was rare and expensive in the West. The formula was Anally "discovered" in Europe in the early IS01 century and first produced by the Meissen factory in Germany. Porcelain can be glazed to give it a glossy finish or left unglazed, creating bisque. One type of all-white bisque is called Parian Ware for its resemblance to Parian marble.

6. "Nippon" is the Japanese name for their country. When the U.S. Congress enacted the McKinley Tariff Act in 1891, all countries had to mark the country of origin on their exports to the United States. (Markings could be paper labels and weren't limited to printed or stamped marks.) Pieces of ceramic marked "Nippon" date between 1891 and 1921. In 1921 the law was revised and the words "Made in" had to be added to marks. Also, the Japanese had to drop the name "Nippon" and replace it with the English name "Japan."

7. Many people don't realize that the W. Goebel factory made fine porcelain wares, includ¬ing figural pieces, long before it introduced Hummel figurines in 1932. Watch for its printed or impressed early mark consisting of a crown over an entwined "W.G."

Clocks & Furniture

1. Don't be fooled by 20th century copies of 18th and early 19th century furniture. Early pieces will show hand craftsmanship with fine dovetailing, early tool marks and specific design features. More modern copies will generally not have dovetailing, will probably be made of thinner pieces of wood, and 20th century veneering is paper thin compared to early veneers, which can often be seen along drawer edges.

2. The "Morris chair" is named for William Morris, an English designer in Victorian England who invented the original version of this reclining armchair in about 1870.

3. "Mission" or "Mission Oak" are terms often used to describe the very simple, sturdy and angular furniture made during the peak of the American Arts & Crafts movement, ca. 1905-20. The name derives from the mistaken belief that it resembles the rare primitive furniture made for Cali¬fornia missions of the 17th through 19th centuries.

4. The "Eastlake" style of late Victorian furniture takes its name from English author and tastemaker Charles Locke Eastlake, whose book Hints on Household Taste (1868) exerted a great influence in the United States. In fact, he was horrified to find his name associated with the often inexpensive, mass-produced furniture made in this country and sold as "Eastlake."

5. Federal "fancy chairs" remained popular into the 1830s. In 1829 Lambert Hitchcock of Connecticut was the first man to start a factory to mass-produce such chairs. "Hitchcock" chairs could be shipped unassembled or ready to use, and eventually reached markets in far corners of the globe.

Glass

1. Direct reproductions, as well as "adaptations" of Victorian Art Glass, are the bane of many beginning collectors. Keep in mind that, in general, 20Ul century copies will be heavier and more crudely finished than the originals. Check the base for a pontil scar. The best early Art Glass had a polished pontil that left a smooth shallow circle.

2. Even though the colorful iridescent glass from the early 20th century has been called "carnival" for some fifty years, there is no evidence that pieces were ever given away as prizes at old-time carnivals or fairs.

Jewelry

1. Be on the alert. A great deal of brand-new reproduction Art Nouveau style jewelry is on the market today, especially pieces in silver.

Tips On Antiques Collecting
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Antique clock prices are an important resource for any clocks collector, you will find antique clock price guides and information in my website.

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Antiques - 17th Century Furniture

It is rare to find furniture pre-16th Century anywhere other than in a museum. It seems that collectors have only been able to obtain pieces from the Tudor period (1485-1600) onwards and even these are relatively small in number.

Until the middle of the 17th Century, furniture was fairly simple, made of oak with peg joins. Some items were painted or inlaid, but the décor, if any, was usually carving. The most common items found today are panelled oak chests, used for linen, some of which are hand-carved with architectural shapes or grotesque figures. If the carving is too geometrical and regular is possible that the whole piece is a fake or at least that the decoration has been "improved" or added more recently.

Later in the 17th Century, what we now know as the chest of drawers gradually evolved. It began with a carcass containing a couple of drawers mounted on a stand with turned legs and progressed to the item that we would recognise now with drawers all the way to the floor. Also at this time, the use of veneer began. Thin pieces of carved or interesting coloured wood were glued to the carcass of the piece, initially as decorative panels and ultimately over the entire item.

Antiques - 17th Century Furniture

Chairs and settles too, started to change from basic, fairly square and plain designs, becoming more elaborate with carvings and can seats and backs being introduced. The very best pieces, destined for aristocratic houses would be lavishly upholstered. Backs became higher and seats lower.

Trade with the Far East began to have an influence on English furniture. Often, lacquered cabinets with two doors and an arrangement of drawers inside were imported from China and Japan and mounted on stands once they reached England. This was the birth of the process known as "Japanning", imitating the Oriental lacquers by using oil and spirit varnishes.

Towards the end of the 1600s, the influx of craftsmen from Europe when the French expelled the Huguenots and the ascension to the English throne of the Dutch Prince William of Orange brought about a radical change in the types of furniture available. One such, was the writing bureau, much as we know it today; an arrangement of small drawers and cubby-holes inside a cabinet with a hinged drop-down front becoming a flat surface for writing. Initially supported on turned legs, these evolved such that a further solid case became the support, which contained a cabinet or drawers and stood on small feet. Materials also changed, with walnut and rosewood, more decorative than oak, becoming popular

Cabinets on stands proliferated all over Europe. In Italy, they were set with panels of marble and semi-precious stones; in the Low Countries, red tortoiseshell was popular. However, it was the court of Louis XIV of France, which instigated the introduction of really luxurious decoration such as floral marquetry in wood and a new and exotic type of marquetry made of ebony veneer, brass and tortoiseshell and sometimes mother-of-pearl or ivory. André-Charles Boulle is credited by some as having invented this technique, which bears his name. Others, however, insist that he was merely an expert executor of the art but not its inventor.

Antiques - 17th Century Furniture
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Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Antiques [http://antiques.for-fun-and-value.com/]

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A Guide to Antiques

If you are thinking of investing in antique items, you would be surprised at the things that you first need to know before you go out and buy antique items. This is because, as with any other purchase, there are a number of things that you need to research so that you can avoid making a mistake in your purchases. Nowadays, this has become very true for antiques because of the proliferation of antique reproductions, which can make finding authentic antique items very confusing. One example that you should know with regard to antique items is the language that antique sellers and antique enthusiast use to describe items. This is because knowing the language they speak can greatly help you with your decisions.

Antique Lingo

First off, you need to know how people determine if an item is an antique or not. Apart from its age, which is usually set at 100 years, an old item is also considered an antique if it has aesthetic and historical value. Now that you know the definition of the word, you can now move on to some of the most commonly used terms in antique lingo. One of these is the term ?original finish,- which means that the protective coating of the item, like the varnish, is the same as it was first made. Usually, items with an original finish are considered very valuable.

A Guide to Antiques

On the other hand, an antique item in its "original condition" means that the item still has all the original pieces it was made with, which can also add value to the item. Another commonly used term is "patina," which is the look of an item caused by years of polish, dirt, grease build-up, and wear and tear, which antique dealers consider as the thing that gives character to an antique item. Another commonly used term is "provenance," which means the documented history of an antique item. One example of this is the value that antique dealers put on items that were used by some of the most notable historical figures, like a table that may have been used by a medieval king to sign a treaty.

Investing in antiques involves learning the ropes about purchasing antique items so that you would be able to make the right decisions in buying an antique item. One of the best ways to do so is to learn the language that antique dealers and enthusiasts use. This is because knowing the language can equip you with the right knowledge on what you should look for in antiques and how you can determine their value.

A Guide to Antiques
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Antiques provides detailed information on Antiques, Antique Collectibles, Antique Furniture, Antique Art and more. Antiques is affiliated with Traditional Table Lamps [http://www.e-TableLamps.com].

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Learn How to Identify and Value Antiques and Collectibles

Antiques are old items that are 100 years old or older. Collectibles are sought after objects that are not yet 100 years old. Of course, many antiques are collectible.

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Values of antiques and collectibles fluctuate due to demand, age, rarity, and the economy. In boom times, if antiques are popular, the prices are high. In a low economy, when no one is buying anything, the prices will be low. When no one is buying, and the prices are low, you can pick up many types of antiques and collectibles for a song.

Certain items hold their value despite a poor economy. Things made of metal such a bronze statues, jewelry, and silverware will remain expensive.

Learn How to Identify and Value Antiques and Collectibles

Fashion trends have a lot to do with the price of both antiques and collectibles. Obviously, if a large amount of people are hunting for a limited number of specific old objects, the price will be high. One must be careful when antiques are popular too. If a particular type of antique is very hot, like Flow Blue china in the 1980's, there probably be a lot of reproductions on the market. Reproductions are fun for every day use, to spare the antiques, but do not confuse a reproduction with an actual antique. It can be very difficult to tell the difference and it takes a trained eye.

You may want to find the value of your antiques for several reasons other than the idea of immediate resale. Value antiques for insurance purposes, or so they are documented for your own personal records. Remember that actual value has more to do with the market than by how much you personally value an antique or collectible. Do not confuse actual value with sentimental value.

For a broad idea of the value of an antique, check online auction sites like eBay. You can compare your own items with sold items and their prices. You can identify many antiques, such as dishware, by the manufacturer's stamp on the bottom. Google the words or the design on the stamp to help find information on the factory, date of production, and value.

For a more concise value, have an antique appraised by a professional in writing. Find a reputable appraiser or have some one that you know recommend someone they trust.

Remember that those antique price guides generally over value antiques. And if a price guide was published several years ago, those values will have changed. Values can also have to do with the area that you live in as well.

If you sell your antique or collectible to a dealer, through a consignment shop, or at auction, you will not get the full price. The dealer must make enough money to cover overhead costs, and gain a profit. Figure the dealer's share to be about one third of the sale price of each item.

Learn How to Identify and Value Antiques and Collectibles

How to value and sell antiques and your old things: http://hubpages.com/hub/AntiquesandCollectiblesHowtoValueandSellYourOldThings

How to identify and value flow blue china http://hubpages.com/hub/FlowBlueHowtoIDandValuetheCollectibleBlueandWhiteAntiqueChina

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Antiques - Where to Sell Them

If you have ever wondered where you could sell your antiques but never quite sure how to go about doing it, there are several options for you to go down. If you want to do it yourself, you can use the internet or be brave and do it yourself. If you after a bit knowledge on antiques you may want to get a dealer in to help you. There are several ways which are all good but you must either know your stuff, research about it or get the experts in.

When dealing with antiques, anyone can do it but not everyone has the eye and may not be able to make a profit with it. The antique business it is about knowing your stuff, knowing makers, knowing what has been restored and what sells. Once you found a piece or pieces you think will sell then you need to go about selling them. There are several ways you can go about doing that.

Antiques

The internet has some really popular sites that people use to sell antiques and is still growing.

Antiques - Where to Sell Them

eBay - This site is very popular and does sell many many things but it is an auction site. Antiques are famous for auctions so this sites falls naturally into the antique world. People can but anything up there and watch the bids come in. As it is on the internet it can be access anywhere in the world opening up to huge numbers of the potential customers, which is great and what you want.

Craigslist - This site doesn't actively sell the items or auction them off, what this site does is provides an area to advertise antiques. It is a basic site but does the job, it is great to find things locally and it is updated often.

The more traditional way of selling antiques is in the antique auctions that are held up and down the country. There are auctions rooms in most counties but some are held in local community halls or centres. It is all about finding out when there is one local to you and making sure you turn up.

The other way you could sell any antiques you got is by getting an antiques dealer. they have expert knowledge on antiques and will know exactly how to make the most profit out of something. You will have to build a relationship with the dealer to make you feel safer to trust them as there can be some nasty ones out there. You can let the dealer handle the where to sell the item and check the item for any faults or fixes that you maybe of not seen or over looked.

Knowing where to sell any antiques is only one part of antiques the trick is picking the right items in the first place as that can be the difference between a loss and a profit. Knowledge is power in the world of antique dealings.

Antiques - Where to Sell Them

Matt @ antique dealer

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Antiques - Wood Basics

Oak, mahogany, walnut, pine, rosewood, maple, elm; you may have some or all of these woods in your home. But, do you know how to tell the difference among them? In this month's column, we'll talk about the different kinds of wood that are regularly seen in antique furniture and some common decorative treatments.

The Basics
Wood is hard or soft. When I say hard, I mean that the wood is dense, whereas, a soft wood is supple. A good trick to tell the difference between hard and soft wood is that if you press your fingernail into a soft wood such as pine, it leaves an indentation. But, this does not happen with a hard wood such as oak.

Antiques

Wood is coarse-grain or close-grain. In coarse-grain wood, the age rings in the wood are far a part, giving it an uneven appearance. In close-grain woods, the age rings in the wood are very close together, giving it a smooth, delicate appearance.

Antiques - Wood Basics

Sometimes, wood is stained. Lighter woods such as oak, elm and maple can be stained to resemble a darker mahogany or rosewood.

Some woods (mahogany, rosewood, burl walnut) are perceived to be more valuable than other woods (elm, maple, spruce). The reason for this is availability. Woods that need to be imported are more expensive than home-grown woods. Woods that are abundant are not as expensive as woods that are scarce.

Oak
Oak is a coarse-grain hard wood found in Europe and North America. Starting in 17th century Europe, oak was used to make furniture found throughout the home. There are several varieties including red oak and white oak. Young oak is pale in color. But, over time and with polishing, oak darkens into a rich brown color.

Mahogany
Mahogany is a close-grain hard wood native to northern and central South America and the West Indies. Mahogany was a popular choice in England during the mid-18th century for fine furniture making. It is a dark red color sometimes, however, it is dark brown. Red mahogany is found in the West Indies and brown mahogany is native to South America. Mahogany furniture continues to be desirable today.

Rosewood
Rosewood is a close-grain hard wood indigenous to India, South America and the West Indies. Rosewood is named for the rose scent that releases when it is cut. Occasionally, I find that people confuse rosewood and mahogany. Both woods can be red in color. However, when you look closely at rosewood, you'll see fine black (and sometimes white) rings that are not present in mahogany. Another trick to tell if an item is rosewood is to pick it up. Rosewood is a very heavy wood, heavier than mahogany. In the 17th century China, rosewood was a popular choice for fine furniture makers. As well, in 19th century Europe, it was used to construct better-quality furniture for fine homes.

Walnut
Walnut is close-grain hard wood found in Europe and North America. The color varies from light to a very rich golden brown color and it is not uncommon to find walnut stained to look like mahogany. Sometimes, disease leads to the unexpected. Burl walnut, the most prized form of walnut, results from a disease that attacks the tree causing a beautiful scrolled, close-grain. These days you see the look of burl walnut replicated in the plastic interiors of some higher end cars.

Pine
Pine is a pale, knotted soft wood with a wide, straight grain. It grows in Europe and North America. Pine was often used in furniture intended to be painted. Everyday furniture - kitchen tables and chairs -were often made from pine.

Maple & Elm
Maple and elm are coarse-grain hard woods found in North America and Europe. They were frequently used in utilitarian furniture. Often a veneer of a finer wood was applied to these woods.

Veneers
Veneering is a technique where a very thin sheet of a more expensive wood is glued to a less expensive wood. Using less expensive woods such as elm and maple and adding a more expensive mahogany or walnut veneer allowed furniture makers to provide furniture that was affordable for a larger clientele. You may hear an antique dealer say; "This table is walnut on maple." The dealer means that the item has a walnut veneer and underneath the actual item is maple. A walnut on maple table is less valuable than a solid walnut table.

How do you tell if your furniture is veneered? Look at the edges of the piece. If you see what appears to be a seam, it is veneered. On the other hand, if the edges of the piece are seamless, it is solid.

Early veneers from the 17th century were hand-cut, so they could be uneven. But, in the 19th century veneers started to be cut by machine. This allowed the veneers to be cut very thin and even. Depending on the way the wood is cut, veneering produces different effects. Butterfly veneering occurs when two opposing end grain veneers are diagonally cut from a branch. They are applied to mirror each other.

Marquetry/Parquetry/Inlay
Marquetry is a technique where various kinds of wood are applied to a surface to produce a picture. Flowers and birds were often the subjects. Exotic woods such as ebony, satinwood and tulipwood were frequently employed.

The difference between marquetry and parquetry is the subject matter. Parquetry is a veneer that uses geometric patterns. Nowadays, you see it in parquet hardwood floors and ornate chess and backgammon boards.

Inlay is a decorative treatment where materials other than wood are cut into a design. Inlays were often made of bone, ivory, mother of pearl, brass, tortoise shell. Marquetry, parquetry and inlay first appeared during the Italian Renaissance.

Gilding
Gilding is a technique wherein gold leaf is applied with gesso (a plaster-like substance) to wood. It is highly decorative and was popular during the Italian Renaissance and the Louis period in France.

Antiques - Wood Basics

Martin Swinton does antique appraisals and estate sales in Toronto, Canada. He has worked at an auction house, furniture restoration company and for ten years owned an antique shop. He does caning, cording and rushing repairs, teaches courses on antiques and appears at community events. He can be reached by visiting http://www.takeaboo.wordpress.com

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